Where did i leave off? Oh yes, sitting at the airport in Delhi. I took a train to my Jet airways flight and got quite comfortable right away in business class. The flight attendant came around with drinks and I took the first risk of the day by trying a mango juice...and I loved it! Everyone looked at me quite strangely (which I'm getting used to) and I looked confusedly at the breakfast menu trying to figure out which choice was perfect for my first Indian breakfast. After ordering something (???) I tried to engage the businessman next to me in conversation about what exactly was on my plate....interesting to note was that his English was not that great, or maybe it's the fact that I'm used to people understanding my accent. Anywho, I tried a bit of all the foods and then stared out the window at the beautiful cloud formations above India. Soon enough, we started landing in Mumbai and I began to notice 1) how green everything was 2) how quickly countryside turned into little shacks 3) there was a huge slum right next to the airport, in fact adjacent to the runway! 4) wow, that must be so loud for the people living there, although im sure that's the least of their worries.
I got off the plane and excitedly grabbed my luggage. I tried to find a restroom but was redirected by helpful workers who must have thought I looked confused or something and pointed me to the baggage claim. Mumbai's airport was MUCH nicer than the one in Delhi, and was full of business people of all kinds (though mostly Indian). I was a bit of an anomolous traveler. Excitedly I walked out of the airport and found Neha! It was a joyous reunion, and then i met man candy himself. They greeted me with the most beautiful blue and white flowers (how did they know that those are the unofficial colors of Jewish people?). We got the car and began the first of many drives through Bombay.
Vivek and Neha pointed out a bunch of monuments and temples, while I marveled at how Vivek managed to drive without killing us in the relative chaos that is Bombay traffic. I was struck by how many people there were everywhere and how you could never expect what you saw. Sometimes there'd be a strip of slums followed by a Ferrari store, followed by a temple, followed by juice stands. The streets were fairly dirty, but even from the beginning, Bombay reminded me of an underdeveloped and exponentially more crowded Los Angeles. Vivek informed me (with Neha interrupting every two seconds) that Bombay was comprised of seven islands and as a result, it was impossible to build skyscrapers. The city can't get any bigger unless it grows out, but it can't build up. And although it is growing out, people are refusing to move to the "New Bombay" because it's too far. Anywho, at the end of this car ride, we turned into a steep and curvy driveway leading up to Neha's apartment building. A man came and opened my door, and then we stepped into an ancient elevator (you know those ones with the metal part you close and then you can see each floor pass). Even there, there was an elevator operator guy whose job was to ride up and down on the elevator all day.
We rode up to the the top floor, and I entered Neha's beautiful apartment. I was struck by how modern it was, and the beautiful view of the Arabian Sea that can be seen from each window. Auntie came and I hugged her, and commented on how pretty the apartment is. I got the royal tour of the place, starting with Neha's gorgeous room, done up by graphic designer Didi. The walls are turquoise with spongue printing, and lots of handprints. It's also ginormous, and has a beautiful swinging bench that overlooks the sea. A treadmill (very dusty) also stood by another window. Wooden cabinets conceal all the shoes and clothes Neha owns. The living room also has a bench swing overlooking the sea. I never saw the kitchen, but I did begin to see the "servants" which was greatly unsettling. I wasn't sure exactly how to address the two older ladies in saris, and the men in loose white uniforms who scuttled about the three larger rooms and then disappeared into the kitchen. The other thing I noticed right away was this little shrine room with idols of Krishna, beautifully and intricately decorated with flowers, petals, and spices as a result of a holiday the day before. It was really beautiful, with the designs forming birds, flowers, and swirls. Krishna himself was sitting on a swing with a string that you could swing him on.
We (Neha, Auntie, Vivek and I) sat down for an Indian brunch. We had idlees, the little pancakes, and sambar, a soupy dip, along with a bunch of other Indian specialties. I was struck by the servants putting food on my plate while Auntie spoke orders to them in Hindi. Honestly, I've never felt so superbly uncomfortable, or unable to respond. Lunch was fabulous, and I was on the verge of collapse from jetlag as Neha went to work. Instead of getting up and cleaning things off from the table, everything was left there for the servants to clean up. The cook came out and I complimented the food (kahana bhot ach cha). I also learned how to address people with a folded hands bow and a "namaste."
Auntie and I chatted for a bit, then I passed out for two hours. After, I found her sitting at her desk overlooking the sea, and she called for coffee and mushroom toast which a servant brought in. (danyavad) Although Neha had told me of the joyous wonders that is coffee at her house, even I was struck by how delicious it was...soon, Shweta arrived (after getting lost on the way home, the driver had to go collect her on a random street). We chatted for a bit, then went for a drive around Bombay. Again I marvelled at how people drive in this city, and said silent prayers underneath my breath and our driver (Thakur) magically kept us alive. People randomly crossed the street and cars seemed to follow no system. We passed by dilapidated apartment buildings, made to look older than they actually are by persistent monsoon rains beating down on their exteriors day after day. Bombay's skyline is absolutely breathtaking, and a street called Marine Drive (Neha has told me so much about it!) offers the opportunity to see how vast this city really is. We went to the Oberoi hotel and shopping center to get a first glimpse of Mumbai's wares. I began to notice, again, how much people were staring at me. The stores were tiny, but expensive, and I was so impressed by the beautiful jewelry, shoes, and scarves.
In a bit, we went to the Gateway of India, an arch reminiscent of Napoleonic arches built to welcome some British royalty. It is the first thing one sees upon entrance from the sea. Unfortunately, it is under restoration so I couldn't see it too closely, but we walked around the perimeter. There were a bjillion people there, like everywhere else in Bombay, and streetsellers sold their wares and made food to the tourists gathered. Thank goodness Shweta was holding my hand and could feel my initial apprehensiveness because I was so aware of the eyes staring at me so obviously because I absolutely did not fit in. This was the first time in my travels that I could be discriminated against (or favored!) just because of the way I looked. I can now sympathize with those whose skin color is noticed and noted at first glance, but honestly, after the first couple of days I got used to it.
We went to a shoe store, and bought absolutely too many beautiful shoes (can you ever have too many shoes?). The shoe shops here all have this hold in the ceiling as the shoes are kept up in the attic, and whenever a size is needed the shopkeeper (as I'm writing this, the Nepali maid just came in to sweep the floor) yells up to the hole and the right size is thrown down by a magical (I think the maid just asked me if i was hot?) seemingly invisible force (a guy sitting up there) halway across the shop. Neha joined us in the fun. Honestly, i'm having the time of my life here. Indian hospitality is insane, and I feel like a part of the family. Auntie is like my Indian mom, and we have spent so much time together. We all make fun of each other, and it's so natural. Thank you Northwestern for giving the opportunity to be sitting here in India (IN INDIA!!! halfway across the world from Chicago!) talking about my extended Indian family.
Anyway, we went down this street with tons of vendors and wanderers selling these weird slimy beads (???) and pashminas. I was told to shut my mouth and not show how much I liked things, as prices are tripled when they see you're a tourist. Auntie bargained for some wares, and Shweta held my hand in the pandemonium of the street. There are just so many people everywhere, all the time! And honestly, the poverty I've seen here is of course extreme, but it is not what I was bracing myself for, at least not in Bombay. Honestly, there are more people sitting and begging for money in Chicago than in the streets I have seen. Sometimes people sit with babies on the street and just be, playing or eating, or just generally being unemployed, but the only extreme poverty can be seen in the slums which mark the streets.
On the extreme opposite end, I seem to living the high roller life, as Neha, Shweta, and I went to the Intercontinental's open air, all white lounge for cocktails and meeting Neha's school friends. It was a gorgeous lounge, something I would have expected in New York or a scene from Sex and the City. We ordered martinis and snacked before Neha's friends arrived. I was getting quite tired at this point, but met Neerav, Deesha, Ashish, and ...Sanket...the EX BOYFRIEND!!! I exchanged looks with Neha, and hoped she saw that I approved very much more of Vivek, the charming gentleman, than Sanket, the pudgy boy sitting in front of me, ignoring eye contact.
Neha invited them over for dinner, which is served here late, like in Spain. They arrived and the servants quickly came out with water and coffee, as these spoiled kids (ok i'm sorry Neha for applying my Western viewpoint, but I could not bear to see these older men bow to kids who were joking around and didn't even say thank you) nonchalantly lounged and chatted. We had masalas and honestly, I don't even remember I was so tired. I could not wait to go to sleep.
At about 4 AM, I woke up ready to start the day, and then realized it was dark...and 4 AM. Damn jet lag! I rolled around and pretended to sleep until everyone got up. After a healthy breakfast and the delicious coffee, I began to raid Neha's closet for a suitable salwar. She pulled out one after the other and finally we found one that fit. When Auntie came in and saw me, she gave me a big hug and told me I'd fit right in. (yeah right). They are so comfy and breezy! Anyway, Neha, being the important reporter for India Today, had an important article to write about a new photo exhibition so we went to go check it out. It was all of these pictures of Bombay from the turn of the century, and all of the rich nazeem's and maharajah's. We even saw the place where the Gateway of India now stands, without the famous monument but with British ladies in huge hats sipping tea on the grass. (YES! I just told the maid I was ok and didn't need anything in Hindi!!! nehi chehi ye...me theek hoom)
Then, we went to the (former) Prince of Wales museum which is really, really pretty! Neha tried to pass me off as a local for a reduced ticket price, which obviously didn't work, so after multiple inspections and a free audio tour guide for my foreigner ticket, we went inside the museum. Neha had just written an article about it for India Today, explaining its Indian-Sarconic style (yes? Im not quite sure what that means) but it reminded me of the British Museum in London. There was an exhibition about Harappan civilization and ancient statues of gods like Krishna and Durga. It was really cool! The idols are almost identical today. We saw Chinese pottery, ancient structures, and beautiful Buddhas.
Soon we left, and Neha went to go retrieve her umbrella, as she had been forced to check it in due to security (??). The man at the desk was involved in a squabble which Neha explained to me made no sense as they were arguing over calling each other idiots. Soon Neha got her umbrella and we made our way to the Jehangir art gallery to look at some modern art (really strange) before settling down for some water at Cafe Samovar. At my request, we made our way to Fab India, a store selling kurtas (long shirts) dupattas (the scarves that go with salwar kameez) and various other Indian clothing. I was excited because in the CD's of learning Hindi which I used before coming here (utterly worthless thus far, OK untrue but I thought I knew more before coming than I actually did) there was a segment where we learned colors based on a shopping trip to Fab India. As I entered, I knew I was screwed because of 1) the variety of merch 2) the crowd perusing aforementioned merch 3) im a sucker for Indian clothes. I was literally like a kid in a candy store as Neha tried to help me be sensible and try some kurtas I would actually wear. We got a bunch and I tried them on. For some reason, my calculations came out to be about $75 for 4 pairs of pants (two breezy salwars, and two tighter chadoors both in black and white) 3 kurtas and 2 dupattas (black and white) at the cash register, it turned out to be more like $150. We left the store and I panicked, poor Neha had to take me back to return 2 pairs of pants and one kurta to make the price more manageable. Honestly, I was having a bit of a panic attack after the fab india interlude.
Thakur (the driver) met us and drove us to pick up Shweta then to a cafe called Moshe's which was started by a Jewish Indian. I kissed the mezuzah as I walked into the cute cafe, another place I could easily imagine in any other big city, and read the sign about when Madonna patronized the same restaurant only a year back. We sat down and ordered chillers, and had salads and sandwiches with nice conversation. The funniest thing happened when Vivek called and said he could see us through a security camera his company had installed right above our table! He went so far as to compliment my dupatta, and we were royally freaked out.
Afterwards the girls had to go to work, so I went off to meet Vivek in his office. Thakur dropped me off and I made my way past the confused stares of uncles and businessmen to meet Vivek. He told me about his company, LiveDarshan which he started right after college. Through five years of failures and hard work, he has come to find success and self-fulfillment as an entrepreneur. I listened with great anticipation to his story, as Shweta joined us after "accidentally forgetting her computer charger at home. I couldn't do any work!" Soon we went off as Vivek, the patient and knowledgeable tour guide, showed us around Mumbai. We saw Victoria Terminal, the beautifully British train station, and fashion street, a long (really long!) stretch of sellers vending wares rejected by the West at discount prices. Walking down the street, he pointed out the street vendors selling this popular drink made of crushing the juice from sugar canes. It was really, really dirty and there were people just lying around on the streets, not begging for money though, just sitting around. We passed by the building which houses the highest courts, and saw men with typewriters offering people to fill out forms as their livelihoods. In this part of the city, I saw the most dilapidated buildings which still held a sort of beauty, but I was glad to get in the car and get going.
Against Shweta's vehement protests, we went to the Hare Rama Hare Krishna temple, where Vivek explained to me the philosophy of this interesting and money hungry sect. I've been to a temple like this twice in the states, but it was still interesting to see how ornate and identical it was those ive seen before. After, we went to Soam for chaat, yummy yummy street food (which my Western stomach will not let me buy off of the street). It was delicious and one of my favorites of Indian food...Lord help me with these spellings...panee puri, sev puri, little fried balls which you crack open and pour things into...i can't really explain it, but it is sooo delicious!
Soon after Neha joined us, and we went to the most peculiar of places. In the middle of the city, there is a small lake called the Banganga. It is like descending into a village where children are running around and there are temples everywhere. It is a super holy place as Ram is supposed to have been here before, and it looks like what I imagined the Ganges to look like, with the ghats (steps). Here, people stared at me like never before and some even followed us around. My most inspiring moment, and a moment I will never forget, which really describes how I feel about India, came when we stepped up to a walkway by a temple which led to the sea. As we walked closer and closer, Vivek pointed out a jetty of secluded land and a private mansion where the governor of Mumbai lives. I walked closer and closer to the edge, nearing the beautiful visage of the sea at twilight...I was expecting rocks or a beach or something, honestly I wasn't expecting anything, but as I reached the banister, another slum, right underneath the temple came into view. My body responded physically to the unexpected slum with repulsion, and Vivek explained that this real estate was the most expensive in Bombay, yet it was the location of another slum. Some of the little shacks even had satellite dishes! I have read that India is full of contradictions and unexpected surprises, and in this moment I truly experienced this for myself.
To top off this magnificent day, Neha, Shweta, and I went over to Neha's Nani's house (her mum's mum) for dinner. After freshening up and changing salwars, we drove to another section of Bombay. We rode up the lift to another penthouse which was beautifully decorated. A servant answered the door, and we met Nani, a beautiful Indian grandma with always a smile on her face and the kindest of hearts. I namasted her, and we sat down as Nani smiled at me and I awkwardly sat listening to the Hindi flying around. I also met Neha's grandpa, and some other family, Didi and Auntie. They gave me a grand tour of the beautiful apartment, where Auntie grew up, and where all of Auntie's three brothers and their families live. As is traditional, Auntie went to live with her husband's family after marriage. We saw bedrooms, and the kitchen where the servants awkwardly stared as we walked by. they had beautiful art, including a pair of decorated tusks (!!) from China, a beautiful jade fountain thing, and a silver dancing Krishna statue similar to the ones I'd seen in the museum earlier. I honestly felt as if I was in a different world, yet again. I've noticed that people here have buttons that they press when they want something, and a servant walks by, or even when anyone walks in, a servant always comes with water to offer the guest...
Nani prepared a traditional Marwari dinner for us, something Neha informed us only happened a couple of times a year on festivals, so I felt supremely honored to be experience a part of longstanding family tradition. Each person had these huge silver plate/bowls with smaller bowls on the inside. Servants came around and put a scoop of rice with chick peas on the plate. Nani came around and mixed everyones food individually with her hands, adding all the different foods in the bowls for flavor, then she took a bite and fed it to Neha, me, Shweta, and Didi. It was the cutest, most grandmotherly love expression I have ever seen. And always with a smile on her face. Neha had warned me that I would be pushed to eat until the point of no return, so I made sure to say "bas" (enough) anytime servants came around with more food. We had homemade gulab jamin which I've found to be extremely tasty here. We chatted as we ate, then washed our hands. I requested a picture of the women in the family since there were three generations present, then we sat and chatted for a bit. I forgot to mention that in the beginning, Nani gave Shweta and I bracelets with little notes that said "with love and blessings, Nani" on them. It was one of the sweetest, most culturally enriching evenings of my life. Here I was, in Bombay, sitting with Neha's extended family in her grandma's apartment. I felt truly blessed and lucky.
I couldn't help but give Nani a hug upon leaving, but then noticed everyone else bowing and kissing her feet. Oops. I couldn't help it, she was too huggable. At home, we passed out and I slept my first full night in India.
Thursday August 28th.
Today I woke up fully refreshed and had breakfast with Auntie. there was this yummy corn thing with toast (corn, flour, milk, cheese and mushrooms yum) with the amazing coffee. After lunch, Auntie and I went shoe shopping after another harrowing car ride. We then went bangle shopping...we walked into the shop and i knew again, i was screwed. everything was just too gorgeous and sparkly...then i saw the price. The most beautiful of bangles was no more than 50 or 60 rupees which is like $1.20. Most of them were 15 rupees! The shopkeers kept pulling out more and more, and i got tons of bangles in varying colors, all gorgeous and sparkly. It seemed I couldn't get enough and I began to get that panicky feeling again, but Aunty encouraged my ruthless spending by offering more and more beautiful bangles i could not resist. No girl needs as many bangles as i bought. there were four huge bags of bangles. but i love every single one of them.
After the bangle buyout, Auntie and i went for tea at the Cricket Club of India, a place where until some time back there used to be a sign that read "no dogs or Indians." We sipped tea and munched on these little sandwiches, sitting next to a cricket field where workers tended to the grass, chatting for more than an hour. The place was British to the max, with leather armchairs and woodwork, I could totally have imagined the Brits here having high tea and talking politics. Neha joined us and we went to the Rhythm Room, a DVD/CD shop where bought about 100 Bollywood films. Then, at my request, we went to visit a synagogue called Knesset Eliyahu. It was gorgeous! A bright blue wonder in the middle of Bombay. Im sure people have no clue what it is, but it is one of the most beautiful synagogues I have ever seen...we went inside and I excitedly kissed the mezuzah...(more here)
The Taj is a truly majestic hotel right next to the Gateway of India. It is a five star hotel with a Louis Vuitton, Bulgari, etc. on the inside, and Auntie told me it was impossible to get a room there without a seven month long waiting list. We went to the top, to the Sea Lounge, where a man was playing "Lady in Red" and other Western pop hits on a black grand piano. Neha and I decided to go for the high tea buffet after eyeing the beauitful little desserts. It was amazing! We got a window seat and had a beautiful view of the Gateway while sipping tea and eating chaat and tarts...soon Shweta joined. It seemed my life had become some sort of a fairy tale...
A bjillion laughs and calories later, we rushed out to catch a play in the experimental theater. It was the famous Indian actor Naseeruddin Shah performing "The Prophet." The play was great, he was an outstanding orator, and the wisdom from the book was orated beautifully.
Afterwards, we walked along Marine Drive, enjoying Bombay's skyline. Then it was back to the Taj for an Indian-Chinese dinner, where i was to meet Sameer, Didi's husband, and Neha's cousin. Shweta, Vivek and i arrived first and sat down at a large square table. I got the menu and was astonished to find many grammatical errors in the introduction. Then Auntie and Neha arrived and we started complaining about how big the table was, which turned to making fun of Neha's loud and booming voice, which turned to making fun of Vivek's choice of table. It was so much fun just all making fun of each other, which yes, inevitably turned to making fun of my loud laugh. Sameer and Didi came, followed by Neha's cousin whose name I cannot spell just yet and we had Dim Sum and some chinese which is different than US Chinese. It was such a fun and playful dinner, just like a big family.
After, we came home and sat for a while. Auntie, Neha, Vivek and I got into a "discussion" (read: argument) until 4 AM about the merits of corporate choosing of products....
Friday August 29th
Today Neha and Shweta had to work, and Uncle (whom I have not seen yet) had a surgery so I just slept, read, and wrote here. Soon Neha will arrive and more adventures will come...
